Autumn Cruise 2021, Kas

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On Oct 03, 2021 we set sail for the 14 hour (70 Nm) to Kas. To ensure arrival well before sunset we left at 02.00 am. The common wind pattern in the area during night and morning is as forecasted. However in the afternoon the wind can easily pipe up to 10+ knots MORE that forecasted, leading up to 25+ knots. For peace of mind we put the first reef in the mainsail upon leaving Rhodes. The big headsail is on a roller-furler and can easily be reefed under any condition. After a slow first half and an exhilarating second half we arrived at 4.30 pm at the customs and immigration dock next to Kas Marina where we had a one week reservation for a berth.

Still in the early morning breeze before the winds really start to pipe up.

We have to tell a bit more about Lycia since we will spent a significant time of our stay in Türkiye in this area.

Lycia was a state (not an empire) that flourished from 15–14th centuries BC to 546 BC. The state was known to history from records of ancient Egypt and the Hittite Empire (Eastern Türkiye and Syria). Lycia was populated by speakers of the Luwian language. In 546 BC Lycia was conquered by the Persians, at which the Luwian speakers were decimated, and Lycia received an influx of Persian speakers. 

Kas (yellow arrow) in the middle of the Lycian (red) coast

Lycia subsequently belonged to Athenian Greeks – Persians again – Caria (neighbouring state) – Persians again, and from 334 BC it belonged to the Macedonian Greeks (Alexander the Great). Lycia was rapidly Hellenized (Hellenization is the adoption of Greek culture, religion, language and identity by non-Greeks.) by the Macedonians, and the Lycian language disappeared from inscriptions and coinage. With the disappearance of language and commercial significance the state ceased to exist. It is not even recognised as a province anymore. Many relics of the Lycians remain visible today, like the distinctive rock-cut tombs in the sides of cliffs, and the stone sarcophagi.

We climb the steep hillside behind the village to have a better look at the tombs.
Over the centuries all these tombs were looted.
Many Lycian artefacts are on display in the British museum.

Kas is a quiet pleasant town with its turquoise blue sea and narrow streets scented with jasmine flowers. Tourism is the main source of income and  there are plenty of little guest houses, quiet cafes serving home cooking, or small bars to relax and listen to live music after a day’s scuba diving at one of the 50 spots in the vicinity.

View over Kas from the tombs. Left, just visible the port basin, the Greek island of Kastellorizo at the far end and the marina to the right.
Village street going down to the port.
The so called King's Tomb. The sarcophagus has the typical Lycian pointed arch lid. From each side of the lid project two lion's head resting on their paws. These stubs where to attach ropes to lift the lid.
The romantic architecture in the port quarters.
We usually skip breakfast and eat only two meals per day. We ordered the lavish Türkish breakfast for lunch. Wow!!
View of Kas from the ports' West breakwater.
It took a bit of searching to find this building we wanted to see because..........
......under it is the only cistern still existing out of seven that were build along the road to the theater. The cistern was initially built for water storage but later used as a wine and olive oil storage. Now it is no longer in use but if you ask the owner he will open it for you.
The function room built over the cistern.
This Greek (Hellenistic) theater could seat 4000 spectators and was built in the first century BC. The capacity of theaters was designed at 30% of the population meaning that around 13,000 people were living in the medieval city. No stage-building stands in the theater today and the original "scaene" was probably a wood structure.
We were lucky to witness a performance of the worlds one and only cotton-guitar player.
View of the marina looking West from the theater.
Back down town, along Ataturk (the founding father of Türkiye) boulevard, another Lycian sarcophagus. Note the stubs on the lid to attach lifting slings.
On the way back to the boat we have to buy some famous Türkish sweets.

The following day we rent a car to visit ancient Myra, present day Demre, but that is for a next post. Thank you for reading our stories. Liza and Frits.