The name “Dodecanese”, meaning “The Twelve Islands”, denotes today an island group in the southeastern Aegean Sea, comprising fifteen major islands. When Greece was established as an independent sovereign state in 1830, after the war of independence from the Ottomans, the Dodecanese islands were left outside the Kingdom of Greece. The Italians had control over the islands since 1912 but in 1947 they were united with Greece.
On Sept 25 noon we left for the 40 Nm to the butterfly shaped island of Astipalaea. It was a comfortable sail under full main and screecher and 8 hours later we dropped the hook in Ormos Panormos, a quiet, uninhabited and well protected bay in the NW corner of the island.
There was no cellphone coverage and except for the clunking sounds of sheeps’ bells there was nothing else to hear (or see) so the next day we crossed to Ormos Vathy in the NE corner of Astipalaea. The small hamlet in the bay had one dirt-road and one restaurant.
We could have given any name since we were the only guests. The food was simple and delicious. Maria’s octopus was really tender!!
The remnants of an old sulphur kiln stood along the dirt-road at the border of the hamlet. The sulphur recovery process was “crude” to say it lightly. At the top the sulphur ore was fed into the kiln. The sulphur contained with the ore was burned off to heat and melt the sulphur in the ore. The molten sulphur was collected at the bottom of the kiln. The yield was only 30% with 70% of sulphur being spewn into the atmosphere as SO2 (a major contributor to acid rains at the time).
After two very relaxed days at anchor we set sail to Ormos Livadhi, the bay just South of the Chora (Astipalea), the main town. The beach is surprisingly leafy for such barren island.
Most of the fortresses in the Aegean were strictly military in character, with thick walls flanked by towers or spurs, even though they might enclose substantial settlements inside. Astypalaea is different because the fortification was part of the settlement itself. An outer ring of private houses, most of them three stories high, formed a continuous defensive ring on top of the steep hill.
Legend has it that the castle was once successfully defended by throwing bee-hives onto the attackers.
The castle got destroyed during a major earthquake in 1956, after which is was abandoned.
That evening we went for diner at Parathinalos, one of the beach restaurants. It was the last evening they would serve meals before closing for the season (Sept 29). The disadvantage was the limited choice of food that was still left. However that was generously compensated by the unlimited amount of deserts that we could eat. They had to empty the fridges!!
On Oct 01, 0900 am we weighed anchor to set sail for the 56 miles to Tilos and 10 hours later we dropped the hook in front of Livadia beach on the East side of the island. The Meltimi (wind) is not as strong anymore this late in the season so the sail was again very pleasant and relaxed.
Although Tilos is off the main tourist trail, there is a surprisingly large number of European pensionado’s populating “Ilidi Rock apartments and suites” on long term rent. As a result there are many restaurants that stay open, there is good grocery shopping and English is widely spoken. Reason enough to stay for a few days.
Saturday around noon we heard very loud music in the bay coming out of the direction of the church. We thought there was a do at the town-square so we hopped in the dinghy, docked in the small marina next to the ferry port and walked towards the noise.
It turned out that the granddaughter of the owner of Hotel Irene had her first communion and there was a party at the hotel. We were invited to join in without hesitation and were welcomed with champagne and snacks. Thank you “Irene” for your hospitality.
The area’s best restaurant was a short dinghy ride to the south side of the bay.
To our question as to why the Greek starters are always so generous, the owner replied; when we Greeks go out for dinner we always share the starters. That is why they are big. We do not share the main course.
We were getting used to putting our dinner together based on what was available rather than based on a menu. The food was again simple, generous and very tasty. Unfortunately the taverna saw only three tables served for the whole evening.
If governments continue the lockdowns and other restrictions over this COVID madness, then many small family businesses will not survive. Is the cure worse than the cause?
Our next stop was Ormos Panormitis in the greek island Symi, with its impressive monastery of the Archangel Michael.
It is not known when the monastery was built but it is still in full use. Tourists arriving by ferry from adjacent islands are the main source of income for the monks. There is a museum, a church and a bakery, the source of fresh bread for the yachts anchored in the bay.
A few items to be found in the museum:
We took the early morning bus to the harbour town of Symi. Note the difference in architecture. No longer the white buildings with blue coloured doors and window frames
We hiked up the hill towards the ancient Kastro built by the (Christian) Knights of Saint John in the 14th century. Only a few parts are still visible today.
The views over the town and its natural harbour is worth the effort of the climb.
Medieval Simi economy was based on shipbuilding and the sponge industrie.
In the port stands a statue of Simi’s local hero, the sponge diver Stathis Hatzis. In 1913 he was asked to locate and tie the lost anchor with its chain of an Italian war-ship. He found the anchor and completed this job at a depth of 88 meter, holding his breath for 3 minutes and 58 seconds!
Nowadays Simi’s economie depends on tourism which was completely down at the time of our visit. Not only because of COVID but also the increased tensions between Greece and Turkey about disputed gas exploration at the border between the two countries. There were no ferries and day-trip boats from Turkey and the number of Greek ferries was less than half of last year.
Food served in tourist hotspots is usually a bit disappointing and the lunch served in the “scenic harbour front restaurant” was no exception to that rule. Next time we will eat in the back allies again.
It was time to leave the Dodecanese and head further East.
Thank you for reading our stories.
Regards, Liza and Frits.