On June 28 we left tranquil Missolonghy and set sail for the 46 miles to Ithaka island in the Ionian sea. It took us almost 10 hours to get there in what was a very relaxed trip. We dropped anchor on a shallow bar between Vathi town and the tiny island of Lazareto in Ormos Vathi.
The life of the Monastery begins around 1696 but the history of the Icon of the Nativity (birth) of the Theotokos (Anna, mother of the virgin Mary), to which the Monastery is dedicated, is even older. The title “Kathariotissa” was received, because the Icon was discovered in the ash of burning “kathara”, a word which in the local dialect is used for dry twigs and brush that are cut and burnt so as to clear an area.
This is the Icon. Anna (Mary’s mother) with a green dress is reclined on a bed. Joachim (Mary’s father and “a man rich exceedingly”) is standing behind her. The newly born Mary is held by a midwife.
In 1830 the historic monastery had reached its peak as rich donations and offerings were made. This financial strength enabled the monastery to play a significant role in the Greek war of independence in 1821, assisting wounded fighters and harbouring others who were being hounded.
Upon approaching the village of Anogi we see this circular structure along the road. This threshing floor is a specially flattened surface with a smooth floor of earth, where a farmer would thresh the grain harvest and then winnow it.
The menhir is one of the large naturally formed monoliths found in the surroundings, although this particular one is put in place by men.
In Greek and Roman mythology, Odysseus, also known by the Latin variant Ulysses, is the legendary Greek king of Ithaca and the hero in Homer’s Odyssey. Odysseus also plays a key role in Homer’s Iliad where he is one of the most trusted counselors and advisors, a voice of reason, renowned for his self-restraint and diplomatic skills. Odysseus came up with the ingenious idea of the Trojan Horse which ultimately led to a Greek victory over Troy.
This is what Odysseus’ palace might have looked like based on the excavation at the site we are going to visit. The ruins are about 3300 years old and without seeing the maquette first it is hard to visualise the complex once at site. The location fits Homer’s description of the views from the palace.
The palace was only recently discovered in 2010, and the name of the site is “School of Homer”. On the photo the Melanithros spring, mentioned by Homer and associated with Penelope’s (Odysseus’ wife) maids.
We continued further North to the pretty little hamlet of Kioni, with Venetian style houses lining the water front.
As we said earlier, there is a tiny chapel on the island of Lazareto next to our boat. That chapel is still very much in use and is a popular stage for a marriage ceremony. The small white boat ferried the guests over from the mainland in multiple trips and now was the time for the bride to make her entry.
Thank you for reading our stories. In a few days we will leave for the neighbouring island of Kefalonia, but that is for the next blog.
Warm regards, Liza and Frits.