On Jun 01, 2023 we set sail for the 21 Nm from Syros to Kythnos. Since we are now on the West side of the Aegean sea, the dreaded Northerly winds, known as Meltemi are not that strong anymore. With only the first reef in the mainsail and a full genoa we had a pleasant and fast crossing.
The day after our arrival we went a few miles further up North to Loutrou bay, trying to find a berth in the small “marina” which is basically a small fishing harbour. No chance. The small port was full with fishing boats and the few spots available for guests were already taken. Next option was to drop anchor north of the old loading gantry and to tie a stern-line to one of the rings that, according to the pilot, were placed in the rock wall. Whilst looking for the rings, that were apparently no longer there, a not so friendly local chased us away by warning that this was a swimming area. However there where no orange boys that normally mark a swimming area. Being guest on his island and better be friend than foe we obeyed and left. Did he removed the rings?? We finally anchored, stern to the rock wall in the exact spot as shown in the SE corner of the pilot plan. It turned out to be a very pleasant location, although the dinghy ride to the village was now a bit longer.
The powers that ruled Kithnos over time are similar to those for the other Cycladic islands, however Kithnos lacked natural resources and the absence of deepwater moorings for boats made the island difficult to access. Only rarely is the island mentioned by ancient writers and Kythnians earned their living as they had for centuries: as shepherds, farmers or by fishing. From 1875 onwards, iron ore was mined on the island providing additional income to those who were employed. However by the outbreak of WWII the mines were already depleted. A dozen of abandoned mines and the old loading gantry pictured above are reminders of this industry.
Loutra is known (but not famous) for its two hot springs. Agioi Anargyroi which is located inside the hydrotherapy center and Kakavou at a distance of about 50m. The source of Agioi Anargyroi is saline and reaches 36 °C. The Kakavou spring reaches 52 °C. The first to realise the importance of hot springs were German doctors brought by King Otto to address the infertility of Queen Amalia. Why German doctors? Because both Otto and Amalia were from Bavarian (Germany) royal descend, becoming King and Queen of Greece from 1836 to 1862. They were expelled from Greece after they were unable to lift the country out of poverty. The, now defunct, hydropathic center was completed in 1857.
We rented a scooter from “Margonis Rent a Moto”. He was never in his office but after calling the mobile number pinned to the front door, a slightly nervous but friendly man arrived in minutes. He turned out to be the port manager and these moto’s were his side hustle.
Off we were to explore the two main settlements on the island.
Our first stop is the Chora of Kythnos (also called Messaria) the capital of the island. It has around 560 inhabitants. The settlement moved inland from the coast, as many settlements on the Greek islands did, when pirates ruled the area from 1500 AD onwards. The streets are narrow, often stepped and we had to park the moto at the church square.
In the 19th century, ceramics and pottery flourished in Kythnos, with Kythnian craftsmen leaving for Athens in the summers and returning in the winter. Some still practise this craft. Glazed and unglazed plates and cups drying outside.
The next village to visit is Dryopida with an estimated 325 residents. The village was also built as a hideaway from pirates.
The majestic Saint Anna Cathedral upon entering the village. Also here the narrow alleys do not allow for motorised traffic so we left the moto at the village entrance.
The Katafyki Cave is located in Fires, a short walk from Dryopida. It is one of the abandoned iron mines, converted into a tourist attraction. Throughout the ages the cave has also served as a refuge and a food storage area as well as a place of celebration.
As I noted earlier; the terraced hill sides. When driving over the island you see them everywhere, most of them no longer cultivated. It turns out that Kythnos was a major producer of high quality barley and semolina in the earlier 20th century. Imagine the sheer amount of manual labor required to tend to those narrow parcels of land inaccessible by machines.
The Greek tourist boom has largely bypassed Kythnos and with nothing really new to explore we plan our next leg that brings us closer to Athens. That is for a new blog.
Thanks again for reading our travels. Liza and Frits.