On Saturday April 22, we left Symi for the 36 Nm sail to the volcanic island of Nisyros. The route is against the prevailing Westerlies so we waited for a day with less wind and motored against it.
The arrival of what looked like a tourist bus caught our attention early Sunday morning. However, out came the priest and other church dignitaries, carrying the icon of Mama Mary. It was the last ceremony associated with the Easter celebrations and the group would enter EVERY house in the village for prayer and blessings.
The next day we took our bicycles for the 5 km ride from Paloi along the coast to Mandraki, the main settlement. The steep terrain made it an exhausting ride but we needed the physical exercise to stay fit, so no complaints.
Along the way we saw the remainders of a ship-loader that belonged to a pumice stone quarry owned by the municipality of Nisyros. The local residents complaint about the amount of dust it generated so the quarry was relocated to the opposite island in 1952. The quarry is the main source of income for Nisyros.
We climb the hill overlooking Mandraki. On top are the ruins of the Hellenistic Acropolis (Paleokastro) that was built from the 6th to the 4th century BC. Part of the city walls are still standing. The city within the walls is not (yet) excavated.
Nisyros island was formed in the past 150,000 years and has a 3 to 4 kilometre wide caldera. A caldera is a large hollow that forms after the ceiling of the magma chamber collapses after emptying the chamber during an eruption. The volcano is currently active but not erupting, and fumaroles are found in the crater. The latest eruptive activity was a steam explosion in 1888. Earthquakes are not uncommon.
Time to rent a car and explore this main attraction and the rest of the island.
Nikia is an authentic Greek village away from the tourist trail, with about 60 inhabitants. The quiet and narrow streets are impassable by car so we leave the car at the parking lot at the entrance of the village. It’s main attractions are the picturesque and tiny square where you will find the only two restaurants of the village and the church. There are different viewpoints of the volcano as well.
After lunch we continue South to the abandoned port of Avlaki. Along the way we became impressed by the cheer amount of agricultural terraces that, although no longer cultivated, still survive despite the numerous earthquakes. Note the farmhouse in the middle of the foto.
Before the 20th century Nisyros was self-providing with almost 60% of the available land being transformed by farming families into agricultural terraces using stone walls. By the mid-20th century, the economic collapse of agricultural activities and consequent emigration caused the abandonment of cultivated land and traditional management practices. Main causes are; – the annexation of Nisyros Island by the Ottoman Empire, and thereafter Italy, and Greece; – overseas migration opportunities; – world transportation changes; – social changes in peasant societies; and changes in agricultural production practices.
After a long and winding road we arrived at the abandoned port of Avlaki. The tiny harbour was used until the 1950’s to supply Nikia. The goods were loaded from larger ships into rowing boats to bring them through the narrow gap in the rocks to the cay. From there the goods were taken to Nikia by horse or donkey. After the road network was developed on the island the port became obsolete.
On the way back to the boat we visited Emporios on the North side of the caldera.
Thank you for reading our story, and hopefully untill next time.
Liza and Frits.
Hello Frits and Liza,
I rarely give my feedback in a public area but couldn’t leave the page this time without doing so.
Your travel reports are very much appreciated and I surely read them all,
Some of them even more than once.
It is so nice to read the interesting details of the places you visit and the way they are detailed with the beautiful pictures makes them very complete.
I wrote it more often in personal messages, these give us the possibilities to join both of you on your world trip.
Many thanks for that, I look forward to the next one.
Lots of love
Loek
Thank you Loek for your kind words. This is very encouraging for us to continue the writings. Love Liza and Frits.
Hi there… this is amazing…thank you for this very thoughtful and real story.. love you guys and more videos and stories to share..💝💝
Thank you Marilyn for your appreciation of this post. It certainly motivates us to continue with this blog. Love Liza and Frits.
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