Palermo, Sicily (Part 1 of 3).

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When we traveled the Med from West to East, we sailed past Sicily along the South coast. (https://www.twobatsea.com/skimming-past-italy/). Now, 4 years later and traveling in the opposite direction we sail along the North coast.

In the previous blog we left the Aeolian Islands and sailed to interesting and touristy Cefalù. On Sep 18 we continued to Palermo, the capital of Sicily. It is not recommended to anchor in the bay and to leave your dinghy on the beach when visiting this city so we opted for marina Sitimar, smack in the middle of the historic centre.

It was late afternoon when the marina formalities were finished so we immediately went to explore the town and to look for a place to have dinner.

Piazza Garraffello

The first “attraction” we stumbled into was (the at first sight rather dilapidated) Piazza Garraffello. The name comes from the Arabic term gharraf; “abundant with water”. The fountain is from 1591. The ruins in the background are the in WWII bombed remains of the Catalan lodge, and are deliberately left in this state as a reminder. I am not sure this fact makes this eyesore palatable?

Chiesa di San Domenico

San Domenico (Saint Dominic) is a Baroque-style Roman Catholic church, located on Piazza San Domenico in the ancient quarter of La Loggia, one of the original quarters of Palermo. Many prominent Sicilians are buried here, notably Giovanni Falcone, an Italian Judge who spend most of his professional life trying to overthrow the Sicilian Mafia. His biggest success was the “Maxi Trial” where 338 out of 475 defendants were convicted to a total of 2665 years in prison. Not surprisingly Falcone paid with his own life in 1992 when his car was blown up.

For street food you head to the famous Mercado de la Vucciria. During the day the area is an open market for fresh veggies and fish. In the evening the place is transformed into an open air restaurant.
Street food (baby octopus) at Mercado de la Vucciria.
Liza enjoyed pasta carbonara and an Aperol Spritz.
Frits had pizza with an o so refreshing beer.
Again later that evening the area is transformed into an open air bar, packed with people and oozing with good vibes.

The first impression of the La Loggia quarter is a bit overwhelming. The maze of alleyways is a leftover from the  Arab period (830 – 1070) but the heavy, dark dilapidated buildings stem from the Norman period (1070 – 1270) when Sicily became one of the wealthiest kingdoms in Europe. One street corner reeking like a public toilet and on the next one your nose is spoiled by flavoursome kitchen exhausts. You expect a black mafia limousine screaming around the corner anytime but instead, are greeted by another friendly piazza.

After a few more drinks and having soaked up the atmosphere we head back to the boat via "Fontana Pretoria", better known as the Fountain of Shame. No one can say for sure why it is called the fountain of shame. One theory suggests it’s a reference to the cost of having all 644 pieces shipped from Florence. Then there is the legend of nuns sneaking out one night and attempting to chisel off the male genitals.

The following morning we continue our walking tour along the Via Vittoria Emanuele, (the main and most ancient street of the city), towards the ancient quarter via “The Quattro Canti”, or Four Corners. Not that there are any corners to be seen there, because the buildings are scooped out to match the circular piazza. 

Each Baroque building façade has three tiers. On the ground, fountains representing Palermo’s four rivers, are topped by a statue representing the seasons. The next level features Spanish kings (three Philips plus a Charles) and the top tier has Palermo’s patron saints (three women, one man). Click on the image to enlarge.

"No Mafia" memorial.
In the Punic and Roman Ages (4th century BC) the area of present Piazza Bologni occupied the central part of Panormos, the fortified city, located between the Papireto and Kemonia rivers. The square was last renovated in 2012. The monument is Charles V, a Habsburg Emperor who wrestled Sicily away from Ottoman control.
Our goal for today: Palermo Cathedral, a world heritage site.

The church was erected in 1185 by the Norman archbishop of Palermo at the location of a former Mosque. It is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. The upper orders of the corner towers were built between the 14th and the 15th centuries. The present appearance dates from 1801,

The current entrance has a wide portico in Gothic-Catalan style, with three arcades, erected around 1465. The first column on the left belonged to the earlier mosque, as evidenced by the Qur'an verse carved on it.
The interior has a Latin cross plan, with a nave and two aisles divided by pilasters. In the chapels of the right aisle are the tombs of emperors and royal figures.
Most prominent is the tomb of Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, king of Sicily (1197–1250), German king (1212–50), and Holy Roman emperor (1220–50). He joined in the Sixth Crusade (1228–29), conquering several areas of the Holy Land and crowning himself king of Jerusalem (1229–43).
Chapel of the Madonna of the Letter, Byzantine style painting, donated by the City of Messina. Via the stairs in front of the alter you can access the cathedral's crypt dating from the 6th century.
The damp subterranean crypt contains carved sarcophagi of various bishops and churchmen of Palermo, including the cathedral’s founder, Archbishop Walter Ophamil.
The most important piece of the church's treasury is the crown of Constance of Aragon, wife of Frederick II. Made in the Tiraz Royal Palace workshop around 1220, and recovered from her tomb.
Different view of the crypt.
Carving on a sarcophagus.
The altar of blessed Pietro Geremia. Can you find Liza? She is about to disappear behind the altar to climb the stairs to the cathedral's roof.
The smaller domes over the aisles. Unfortunately the central dome over the central nave was covered in scaffolding.
View over Palermo. The prominent statue of Santa Rosalia on a pedestal in the centre of the Cathedral's square. The dome of Chiesa del Gesù in the background.
Mount Pellegrino, made famous by the sparkling water going by the same name. The building to the centre right is Teatro Massimo, one of Europe's largest opera houses.
Attached to the Cathedral is the Archbishop's palace (15th century). Today, the palace is home to the Diocesan Museum of Palermo, with a variety of religious art on display. We will go there next.
The Palace is connected to the Cathedral by two gothic arches.
Figurine of St. Agatha, one of Palermo's Patron Saints whose statue is on display at Quattro Canti. She lived in the 3rd century. Among the many tortures she underwent, her breasts were cut off, but they were healed by St. Peter, who appeared to her in prison. She was then spread out on burning coals but her veil did not catch fire, so it was used by the inhabitants of Catania miraculously to stop the lava flow of the Mount Etna. Her arm is kept in the Palermo Cathedral and her feast is on February 5.
The most important terracotta artefact in the museum is this 15th century frame representing the Virgin Mary in adoration of the Child, lying on a bed of leaves. On top, the half-length of the eternal Father is visible, surrounded by five winged head angels; in the middle the Dove, that is the Holy Spirit.
Parade plate with John the Baptist's head (16th century). Johns' beheading around 30 AD was ordered by King Herod who was afraid of John's influence over the people.
Rich decoration of the rooms in the Palace. The wall fresco's date from 1733.
The founder of the Palace, Simone Beccadelli da Bologna Archbishop of Palermo (1445-1465), here portrayed on the left.
Porta Nuova is the city gate of Palermo on Via Vittoria Emanuele, and is located beside the Norman Palace. The gate was built to celebrate Charles V's conquest of Tunis (1535).
Sometimes........and only sometimes we go for an exclusive dinner. Sicilian's paying so much attention to their food, then this should be 'the' place. Next week we would both celebrate our birthday so reason enough to book a table at Michelin star restaurant MEC. A gate in one of the old Norman buildings led to a lovely courtyard.
The inviting orange hue marked the restaurant entrance on the first floor.

We opted for the “Tasting menu with paring wines”. With this kind of dinner you do not eat. You relish a pallet of mouthwatering taste, colour and aroma. Take a bite, take a sip and pamper your tastebuds. Click the thumbnail below.

After this fantastic dining experience we strolled along Palermo’s oldest street back to the boat to be met with again another surprise at The Quatro Canti.

If it breaks your heart to see beautiful buildings in disrepair, or if you like your world polished and logical, Palermo may not be the place for you.

If you’re willing to embrace the city’s complexity and diversity, then book a ticket tomorrow. More about this fascinating place in our next post. Thanks for reading, see you next time. Liza and Frits