Vigo & Baiona, Spain

We left Pontevedra with a stiff breeze on the stern on 29 Dec 2019 and sailed one Ria further South. We dropped anchor in the lee of Isla de Toralla to be greeted the next morning by the locals, fishing for shell-fish.

Fishermen using long rakers to harvest the shell-fish off the sandy bottom in the shallow water.

Since we would travel to NL in January to celebrate the 90th birthday of Frits’ father we had to find a secure marina to protect the boat against the winter storms during our two week absence.

Docked in Punta Lagoa marina, deep inside Ria Vigo, NE of the city and protected by wooded Monte de la Guia.

Vigo is an industrial city, only recently developed in the 20th century and therefore short of monuments. During the Iron Age (900BC – 100AD) the hillside surrounding the ria’s (fjords) where doted with “Castros” (hill-forts)

Reconstruction of castro dwellings

To protect Vigo against the continuous raids of the Portuguese and their British allies a fortress was built on top of the hill in 1665.

Castello do Castro, built solely for the cities’ defences and not as a fortified residence. The city walls have disappeared.
Overlooking Vigo from Castelo do Castro

The cities defences proved inadequate and Vigo was looted again in 1702 during the War of the Spanish Succession. More about that war in the chapter about Gibraltar.

Monument in commemoration of the Battle of Vigo Bay (Battle of Rande) when a British – Dutch fleet defeated the Spanish – French warships.

We planned to celebrate New-Years eve in Vigo, known for its vibrant nightlife. That turned out to be a bit of a bummer. It proved almost impossible to find a restaurant or tapas bar that was open. After roaming the streets for an hour we finally found a simple place to eat. After finishing our meal and heading back to the city center it turned out that ALL, no-kidding, ALL bars were closed. New year is clearly a family affair.

Vigo’s vibrant nightlife????? Not so on New-Years eve!!!!

We traveled to the Netherlands first week of Jan 2020 to celebrate the 90th birthday of Frits’ father.

Three generations in one photo. Frits’ father holding a picture of his father from 1930 and Frits’ youngest brother, Walter.

After returning to Ria Vigo we visited Baiona, a village at the Southern entrance of the Ria. On 01 March 1493, the caravel “Pinta” docked in Baiona, an important trading port at the time. It brought the news that Columbus had made it “to the Indies”. Columbus himself arrived 3 days later in Lisboa.

Fortaleza de Monterreal in Baiona, built between 1100 and 1700. The site was prior occupied by the Celts, the Phoenicians and the Romans.

La Pinta was the fastest of the three ships used by Christopher Columbus in his first atlantic crossing in 1492. The small size of the ships, made is difficult for Columbus to recruit crew and a small number of them were prisoners given a lighter sentence if they would sail with Columbus.

12 Oct 1492, the moment Rodrigo de Triana spotted land.
View of the forecastle. The caravel is surprisingly small. About 17 meters long, weighing 60 tons and had a crew of 26.

The caravel was developed around 1450 by the Portuguese under the direction of “Henri the Navigator” who required a lighter and better manoeuvrable ship to explore the rivers and the West-coast of Africa. Due to its Lateen triangular sails the caravel was able to sail closer to the wind and was faster than the traditional Mediterranean ships of that time. It was the caravel that gave the Portuguese the edge on transoceanic exploration.

Navigator’s desk in the sterncastle.
From the rudder position we cannot see the sail, the sea, nor the bow. It is not known how the caravel was actually manoeuvred.
The carpenter had a full time job in limiting water ingress into the vessel and other types of repairs. The cooper maintained the water barrels.
We enjoyed lunch in the luxurious hotel “Parador de Baiona” situated inside the fortifications of the old town.

We were soon headed to Portugal but take this opportunity to thank Paul & Jenny Davies, owner of a beautifull replica of a wooden 59′ Starling Burgess schooner, moored next to us, for showing us their boat, for the drinks and the pleasant conversations.

Details of this magnificant vessel at: http://www.sandemanyachtcompany.co.uk/yacht/503/starling-burgess-59-ft-staysail-schooner-2004